Vohuman Cafe - Another iconic Irani cafe of Pune City

A discussion on Irani Cafe's in Pune with a fellow group member on facebook resulted in a debate on which one serves the best bun maska in town. And, the thirst of deciphering the truth led us to Vohuman Cafe.

This place opens up at like 6:00 a.m which was way early for us considering that we hit the bed late after Friday night. Nevertheless, the fear of having to wait in along queue with our stomachs grumbling as we sniff the aroma of butter and cheese omelette made us drive off to the place at 8:00 a.m 

Reaching the place was fun as the roads were pretty much deserted in the early morning and we could just whizz past the very roads that turn into a traffic nightmare on the weekdays. However, getting parking near Vohuman for our two-wheelers turned out to be a task. It was just 8:00 a.m on a weekend and there were so many vehicles by the roadside! 

Having found a parking spot a few minutes later we rushed off to the Cafe. We were greeted by a guy wearing a yellow T-shirt who promptly took down our names and told us that we would have to wait for a few minutes owing to the rush. Thankfully, we got a place in about 10 minutes. 

The entrance of the Cafe

Vohuman Cafe has two small sitting areas, one on the ground floor and another on the floor above. To the right of the entrance is the L-shaped counter where one can see a worker setting up bun maskas as if he were a machine. And if you are in a long queue then the sight of this guy spreading generous dollops of butter on the bread is definitely going to make your mouth water and test your patience.

Ground floor dining area

First floor dining area

The cafe was well lit and had a somewhat modern touch to it. Walking up the stairs, we instantly noticed a picture of "Bawaji" the restaurant owner with several celebrities including Salman Khan. The staff at the Cafe will tell you that the iconic eatery has been visited several times by Salman. So who knows, maybe you land up meeting a bollywood star as you sip your tea in your trackpants!

The moment we reached the end of the stairs, a huge board displaying the menu of the Cafe caught our attention. The menu is to be honest is very limited and is essentially based on two things - Butter and Egg !

We ordered pretty much the same thing as the patrons on the adjacent table. The standard - bun maska, chai, two slice butter and cheese omlette. The small menu that too with most of the items being egg based was a problem for my vegetarian friends who had to settle for the bun maska and bread butter. The breakfast was good but nothing startlingly different from what we have had before. 

Our order - Bun maska, chai, two slice bread butter and one egg cheese omlette

After the meal it was a long ride home as we ended up getting stuck in traffic at every signal. 

How to get there??

(The map provided above is from Baner. You can search the name of the Cafe and set the route from your location on Google Maps.)

Vohuman Cafe is located at a walking distance of a few hundred meters from Pune railway station. One can take the overhead walkway bridge accessible from the station platform and come out at the backside of the station. From here its a mere 5 to 10 min walk to the cafe. The proximity of the cafe to the railway station makes it a lucrative option for travellers plying early morning to and fro from Pune (especially daily commuters on the Mumbai-Pune route).

Cafe Goodluck - A must visit legendary restaurant in Pune !!

Ask for a place to have some lip smacking breakfast at an affordable price and Cafe Goodluck would be an impromptu reply from any Punekar. There are several who would even say "You cannot claim to have visited Pune unless you have had the famous bun maska and chai at Goodluck Cafe".

How to get there??

This quaint restaurant is so famous that the place where it is located has been named as Goodluck chowk. Getting here can never been an issue as every auto rickshaw and cab driver in the city is familiar with  this famous landmark.

About Cafe Goodluck....

This legendary cafe was started by Hussain Ali Yakshi way back in 1935. The place draws huge crowds on a daily basis owing to its proximity to educational institutes such as Fergusson College, Modern College, BMCC and Symbiosis. In the past, this place was frequented by film stars such as Dev Anand and Rajesh Khanna and also director David Dhawan as the Film and Television Institute of India (FTII) is located close by. 

In 2001, Hussain Ali Yakshi's son Ghasem took over the restaurant. It was he who revamped the menu, introducing new tawa and tandoori recipes which are a hot favourite today. 

The USP of this place, apart from its location is the pocket friendly, delicious and fulfilling food. The fact that the food items have not undergone any change with respect to their quality and taste, creates a beeline of customers since the early morning till late night.

The menu of the Cafe includes several veg and non-veg dishes along with snack items and dessert. 

Must have food items at this Cafe !!

1. Bun Maska (with Chai)
2. Bun Butter Omlette
3. French Toast (both sweet and salty)
4. Paneer Roll
5. Egg Roll
6. Chicken Roll
7. Brain Masala
8. Irani Chai

(Note: The rolls are available only after 4 p.m. so you will have to visit the place in the evening to taste them. But they are definitely worth the visit.)

The famous Bun Maska served in the Cafe

Lets get started....

Upon reaching Goodluck Chowk one can instantly notice the big red board of this iconic eatery with "Cafe Goodluck Since 1935" written across it. Sometimes it takes a bit of a struggle to catch a glimpse of the entrance owing to the huge crowd waiting to get a seat. (Fortunately, as we reached there early at around 8:20 a.m. so there were only few people.)

As you enter the cafe and glance around, you can easily notice that nothing much must have changed since the inception of the place. There is a small counter to the right side of the entrance that is stacked with trays containing hot samosas, puffs and delicious looking sandwiches. The owner sitting behind the counter is busy juggling the tendering of cash, handing out take away parcels and maintaining a record of the inventory. Yet, he manages to look up to you and with a warm smile reassures you that it would take only  few minutes before you get your seat.

The small room has tables arranged adjoining the walls with the centre aisle providing access to move to-and-fro for the waiters. The wall to the right is adorned with mirrors creating an optical illusion of space as the sunlight entering through the windows overlooking the bustling FC road lights up the entire place. 

Shifting my gaze, I notice a huge vessel containing loads and loads of butter and another containing rich pink coloured jam near the counter. The sight is enticing enough to set my stomach grumbling. In a flash, a waiter appears, takes out a bun from the cabinet, slices it and applies a generous layer of that yummy butter and voila serves the bun maska to the customer seated close by.  

Tracing the waiter as he goes back, I notice that there is another seating area inside that opens up to a larger dining space ahead. So this place isn't that small after all.

(One can also access this area from outside the restaurant. There is an entrance to the right side of the main door of the restaurant. You can provide your name and number of people along with you to the person at the counter who maintains the queue list)

People of all age groups can be seen in the cafe, a group of elders sitting in the corner reminiscing the good old days, a few college boys hastily having breakfast before they rush off to their classes and a couple lost in deep conversation, among several other people.  

I decided to strike up a conversation with them to get to know more about the place. A member of the elderly group told me that they were all school buddies and have been patrons of this iconic eatery since their school days. They take time out twice every month to catch up with each other and remember those golden days as they sip their chai and enjoy the bun maska which till today tastes the same.

The college students told me that they were new to Pune and lived in a hostel nearby. The place was very pocket friendly and they often ate breakfast and dinner at the Cafe. While the couple mentioned that they had come to visit the place as they were in Pune for a week and wanted to relive the time they spent together at their adda during their college days.

The rush at the cafe provides you with the opportunity to share your table with others and strike up conversation with them. A thing that has become a rarity in this age of social media !

Time just flew by in all the chit-chat and it was our turn to be served at this legendary cafe. The waiter smiled as we told him our order "2 bun maskas, 2 chai aur 2 frenchtoast" probably the most common order out there.

He was back in a few minutes and neatly arranged all the items on the table before hurrying off to attend to the next order.

The bun maskas were soft and fresh. The combination of loads of yummy butter and bits of tooti fruti was working its magic as I relished it after dunking a piece in the hot chai. Both the sweet and salty french toasts were finger-licking awesome. 

And as we paid our bill at the counter, I knew that I had made another awesome memory at one of my favourite places in Pune !

Our order - Bun Maska, Chai and French toast (both sweet and salted)

The stack of Bun Maskas kept in the inventory - Ready to be served

Bun Maskas being prepared

Tips for fellow foodies:

1. There is no facility for reserving tables over calls in this restaurant.

2. Please do try to reach this Irani cafe at least 20 to 30 minutes in advance as the place is super crowded at all times.

If you happen to be in Pune or you are planning to visit the city then this is a place that has to definitely be on your to-visit places !!

If you have already been to the place or are a regular patron, do let me know about your experience, the foodstuffs that you like and recommend or any special memories associated with the cafe in the comments section below !!

Bon Appetit !!

Visit to the Santhome Cathedral in Mylapore, Chennai - One of the only three known churches in the world built over the tomb of an apostle of Jesus

I hope the title was enough to spark your curiosity to get to know more about this historical place which is located a hop, skip and a jump away from the Marina beach in Chennai. 

Well, let me intensify that spark by giving you a few more reasons as to why this place has to be in the top few of the places-to-visit in Chennai list.

1. It is a 16th century monument.

2. You get to see a different architectural style (read more to know....)

3. You can visit the sacred tomb of St. Thomas (remember the title....one of the only three known churches in the world built over the tomb of an apostle of Jesus)

4. There is a museum depicting the history of St. Thomas and it also houses a Relic!

5. The structure is simply beautiful and you are sure to be fascinated by it.

A side view of the Santhome Cathedral

How do you get there?

If you happen to be at the Marina beach, then the Santhome Cathedral is a mere 4 min drive away. Alternatively you could also walk down to the place which is approximately 2 km away from the central point of the beach. You can also hail a cab or an auto. 

About the Santhome Cathedral....

Importance....

The Santhome Cathedral is also known as the St. Thomas Cathedral Basilica. It is the principal church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Madras and Mylapore and was raised to the status of a Basilica minor by Pope Pius XII in 1956. The Catholic Bishops' Conference of India declared this holy site as a national shrine on 11th February 2006.

The Santhome Cathedral is also one of the only three known churches in the world built over the tomb of an apostle of Jesus. The other two are Santiago de Compostela Cathedral located in Galicia, Spain and St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City.

About St. Thomas....

St. Thomas regarded as the Patron Saint of India was one of the 12 apostles of Jesus Christ. He came to Muziris in Kerala from the Roman province of Judea in order to spread Christianity and baptised several people. His followers are today known as the Saint Thomas Christians or Mar Thoma Nazranis. 

He used to preach at a cave at the little mount (present day St. Thomas Mount near Chennai). It was here that he was killed by a lance that pierced through his back. The present day Santhome Cathedral is believed to have been built on the location where his mortal remains were buried.

Construction of the church....

In the 10th century A.D. a group of Nestorian Christians from Persia laid the foundations of the Christian village of San Thomes and constructed a church over the saint's burial site. However, this church fell to ruins between the 14th and 15th century.

The Portuguese, in 1522, moved the remains to a new tomb and it was rebuilt as a church with the status of a cathedral by the British. The present structure which we see before us is that built by the British. 

My experience....

The present day cathedral that stands before us has been constructed in Neo-gothic style (remember I told you that you would get introduced to a new style). I was captivated by the elegant white appearance of the building with its tall spires reaching high into the blue sky. The gorgeous white coloured building with the blue sky in the background does create a sort of dreamy picture in your mind. The spires also have delicate carvings which further enhance their appearance.

As I entered through the large wooden doors of this divine structure, I instantly glanced upon a huge statue of Jesus Christ located at the far end of the hallway. Even from that distance, the statute looked mesmerising, and I could feel myself being drawn to it to have a closer look. 

The cathedral has several glass painted windows and the bright sunlight filtering through them creates a magical effect, almost as if it were bringing the characters in those scenes to life. The numerous rows of wooden benches (pews) on both sides of the hall further add to the aesthetic symmetry of the place. 

A view of the interior of the Cathedral as seen from the entrance

Venturing further in, I noticed a beautiful statue of the "Lady of Mylapore". We joined the priest and the others present as they offered prayers to the "Lady of Mylapore".

Having seen the entire cathedral, we still couldn't find the tomb of St. Thomas anywhere. Suddenly, I noticed that there was an opening behind the statue in the altar. The opening was an exit that led to another building. 

Upon entering this building, the guard told us that the museum was to the right and the crypt chapel was in the basement. We decided to see the crypt chapel first. Walking down the stairs we came across huge posters displayed on the walls containing information about the tomb and the life of St . Thomas.

The stairs lead you to a small room, to the right of which is a glass separator. Beyond the separator one can see two statues (St. Thomas and a person with a lance) depicting the moment when St. Thomas was killed. 

A small passage ahead takes you to another small room which is the crypt chapel and to the end of which you can see the tomb of St. Thomas which has been beautifully crafted.

We spent some time here, before returning to the museum.

The tomb of St. Thomas

The museum....

The museum houses several artifacts from the bygone era. The walls of the museum have carvings and paintings depicting the life of St. Thomas and the miracles which he performed. It is here that one can see the Relic of St. Thomas, which holds the lance head that killed him. 

The statue of Pope John Paul II near the entrance of the Cathedral

Tips for Travellers....

1. Please do remember to see both the buildings -  the main cathedral and the other housing the crypt chapel and museum.
2. Please remove your shoes at the entrance of both the buildings as shoes are not allowed inside.
3. Please maintain silence while you are in the cathedral
4. Please do try and see the place in both daylight as well as night time (we could not cause of time constraints)
5. Please refer the Cathedral website www.thesanthomechurch.com for more details.

Hope you have an insightful visit !!

Visit to Chennai Lighthouse

As your eyes take in the panoramic view of the beautiful Marina beach of Chennai, they are sure to notice a tall structure with red and white stripes painted across it. This structure is the famous Chennai lighthouse which is also called as the Madras lighthouse or the Marina beach lighthouse.

            

   

A view of the lighthouse from Marina beach

A close-up of the lighthouse

How to get there?



The lighthouse oversees the Bay of Bengal and is a famous landmark on the Marina beach. It is located at a distance of about 18 km from the airport and is easily accessible by auto, cab and metro.

So your probably thinking.....why should you visit this place??

1. For the beautiful view of the marina beach and the adjacent promenade. (Sure to charge the photographer in you)

2. It happens to be the only lighthouse in India which is within the city limits. (Now, where else would you get this chance)

3. It is one of the few lighthouses in the world which have an elevator ! (Saves the effort of climbing up all those floors, phew!)

4. It also houses a museum, giving you an opportunity to see the transition in equipment used in lighthouse from the good old days till today.

A view of the sea, the marina beach and the adjacent promenade from the 9th floor of the lighthouse

A close-up of the Marina beach as seen from the lighthouse

Lets take a trip back in time shall we??....(a brief history of this famous structure)

Historically four different structures have served as the Madras Lighthouse during different periods of time.

The first lighthouse (1796):

A lantern fed with oil bearing large wicks located on the roof of the Officer's Mess cum Exchange building (present day Fort museum) in Fort St. George functioned as the first lighthouse. During this period the sea was close to the walls of the fort.

The second lighthouse (1844):

The second lighthouse operated from a 38 meter tall stone tower located in the present day High Court building compound. This lighthouse began functioning from 1st January 1844 and used flashing light consisting of argand lamps and reflectors till 1894.
The base of this structure has the survey point of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India.

The third lighthouse (1894):

The third lighthouse functioned from the central main dome of the newly constructed Madras High Court building. The lighthouse used kerosene vapour lamps till the advent of electric power and was set to a height of 175 feet above sea level. The capillary lamp of this lighthouse could produce a beam of light of 18,000 candelas.

The fourth lighthouse (1977 - present day)

The  46 meters RCC, tall, triangular red and white building that we see before us today is the city's fourth modern light house. This lighthouse has a range of 28 nautical miles and started functioning from 10th January 1977 onwards. The structure was closed for public visit for almost 22 years and was re-opened in November 2013.

Lets talk about the present day lighthouse....

The present structure has 11 floors and is attached to a three floor circular harbour-control building. The 9th floor of the tower has a viewing gallery from which one is able to see the beautiful marina beach, the promenade and other structures of the city. It gets pretty windy up there and one can often sight black winged kites and other birds at eye level. Steel welded mesh panels have been erected for the safety of the public. The 10th floor has a high-security radar installed which is not open for public view.

At the base of the tower is a small museum room displaying several equipment used in light houses. The room and equipment are well maintained and provide a gateway to the curious folk into the past as one can see the advancements in lighthouse technology.

Bonus: Just in case you are wondering....hey I went to the lighthouse but they didn't give me access to the light....

An old top of the lighthouse (located in Kutch, Gujarat) containing a functional rotating light has been kept in the museum.

(Hence, do not miss this)
(And as photography is prohibited inside the museum....there are no pics to post here)

So tell me.....how do I get to the ninth floor to see that magnificent view ??

Well...........

Visitor Timings - 10:00 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3:00 pm to 5:00 pm

Ticket Charges - Adults - Rs 10, Children - Rs 5  (may have changed)

Bags are not allowed and have to be kept in the rack near the guards cabin. Hence, it is advisable to not carry any valuables such as laptops.

Hope you have a fantastic visit !!